Mon – Sat: 8:00 AM – 8:00 PM Greater Toronto Area

Window and Screen Repair in Toronto and the GTA

Service

Window and Screen Repair Across the GTA

Window and screen repair is small work that changes how a house feels. A torn screen means mosquitoes all July. A crank that spins without pulling the sash tight means a cold line across the room every January. I re-mesh screens, build new frames, replace operators and hardware, and sort out drafts and sticking sashes for homes across Toronto and the GTA.

Most screens are worth re-meshing rather than replacing. Where the frame is still square and the corners are tight, new mesh and new spline bring it back for years. Where the frame has bowed or the corner keys have crumbled, I build a fresh frame to your opening. Either way the mesh, spline and hardware come with me, and the old material leaves with me.

What's Included

  • Window screens re-meshed with new spline
  • New aluminum screen frames built to size
  • Patio screen door rollers and latches replaced
  • Casement operators and cranks matched and replaced
  • Kerf-in weather stripping renewed around sashes
  • Sticking sashes freed, cleaned and adjusted
  • Exterior window caulking cut out and replaced
  • Weep holes cleared so water drains out
  • Screen corner keys and pull tabs replaced

What window and screen repair usually involves

The list under window and screen repair is scattered: mesh, spline, frames, cranks, rollers, balances, weather stripping and the caulking around the outside. Plenty of homes in Toronto need several of those at once, which is why I like to walk the whole house and deal with everything in one visit rather than come back for a single screen.

Re-screening: mesh, spline and tension

A screen is four pieces: the frame, the corner keys, the mesh and the spline that squeezes the mesh into the groove. Get the spline diameter wrong and the repair fails, either straight away or next summer. Too thin and the mesh pulls out of the channel on the first push from a cat or a kid. Too thick and it splays the frame out of square.

Tension is the other half of it. Mesh needs to be drawn just taut, not stretched drum tight, because a light aluminum frame will bow inward and stop fitting its opening. I roll the spline in with a proper screen roller, work opposite sides in turn, then trim the waste back into the groove with a fresh blade so no fringe shows along the edge.

Mesh choices that matter

Standard fibreglass is soft, forgiving and fine for most windows. Aluminum mesh holds its shape and suits doors and low windows that get pushed on. Pet mesh is a heavy vinyl-coated polyester that shrugs off claws. A tighter no-see-um weave keeps out the very small insects near ravines and the lake, and solar mesh cuts glare and heat on west-facing glass at the cost of a little view.

Cranks, operators and window hardware

Casement operators wear out from the inside. The worm gear strips, so the handle turns while the sash barely moves, or the arm shoe drags in its track. Replacements are matched by manufacturer, by hand, and by arm length, which is why photos of the operator, the arm and any numbers stamped on the sash help me source the right part before I come out.

Grit is the quiet killer here. The track that the arm slides in fills with dust and paint, and oil makes it worse because oil holds dirt. I clean the track, use a dry lubricant, check the hinge arms at the top and bottom, and replace the handle when the splines inside it have rounded off.

Sashes that stick, drop or will not lock

Sliding and hung windows have their own faults. Vinyl sliders ride on small nylon rollers that flat-spot and drag. Older hung sashes hang on spiral or block-and-tackle balances that lose tension, so the window creeps down or feels heavy to lift. Paint build-up in the channel is the simplest cause of all, and often the real one.

Locks and keepers go out of line once a sash has dropped or a frame has moved. Forcing the handle bends the keeper, and then nothing latches at all. I adjust the sash first, move or shim the keeper second, and replace parts only when they are genuinely worn. Adjusting first and replacing last is the habit that makes window and screen repair worth paying for.

Drafts, condensation and caulking

Weather stripping is what actually stops a draft, and it is the part of window and screen repair people forget is consumable. Kerf-in bulb seal compresses flat over the years and foam-backed tape hardens. Fresh seal pushes into the same kerf, cut slightly long so the corners stay compressed. A strip of paper closed in the sash gives a quick check: if it slides out freely all the way round, the seal is finished.

Condensation confuses people. Water on the room side of the glass in winter is indoor humidity meeting a cold surface, which is a ventilation problem more than a window problem. Fog trapped between the panes is a failed sealed unit, and that unit has to be replaced by a glass company, so I will point you there instead of pretending a repair exists.

  • Old perimeter caulking cut out fully before new sealant goes on
  • Backer rod pushed into wide joints so the bead can flex
  • Exterior-grade sealant tooled into a clean, dry joint
  • Weep holes at the bottom of the frame left open, never caulked shut
  • Interior stop and trim gaps sealed where drafts track in
  • Sills cleared out so water drains away instead of sitting
Simple Process

How Window and Screen Repair Works

1
Photos and measurements

Send photos of the screen frame, the crank or the numbers stamped on the sash. I measure the frame outside to outside, check the spline groove and note the mesh type, so I arrive with the right material in the van.

2
Work done on site

Screens are re-meshed at your place on a flat surface, usually a table or a clean floor, so nothing leaves the property. Frames that need rebuilding get cut, keyed and squared before the new mesh goes anywhere near them.

3
Hardware and seals

Operators, rollers, balances, locks and weather stripping go in next, with each window opened and closed several times to confirm it runs smoothly, latches without a shove and seals against the frame all the way round.

4
Refit and clean up

Screens go back into their own openings, since they are rarely interchangeable, and I mark them if you store any over winter. Old mesh, spline offcuts and packaging leave with me, and the sills get wiped down.

What Affects the Price

Screen work is priced mostly by count and by mesh. A row of standard windows goes quickly once I am set up, while pet mesh, solar mesh and rebuilt frames take more material and more time. Hardware is different again, because obsolete operators and balances take sourcing before they take fitting. Upper floors, fixed screens behind storm units and anything reached from a ladder are slower. You will have a fixed price or an hourly rate agreed before I start, and receipts for anything I supply.

The price is always agreed before the work starts — a fixed price or an hourly rate, whichever suits the job. Quotes are free and there is no obligation.

Good To Know

Window and Screen Repair Questions

Yes, and that is how I prefer to do it. I work on a flat surface at your place, re-mesh the frames one at a time and put each one back in the opening it came from. Screens that look identical often differ by a few millimetres, so keeping them with their own windows avoids ending up with a set that almost fits.

Not by me, and not properly by anyone. Fog between the panes means the seal on the sealed unit has failed and moist air is inside the cavity. The honest fix is a new sealed unit from a glass company, which I am glad to point you toward. Drilling and venting a unit clears the view for a while but does not restore the seal or the gas fill.

Pet mesh, which is a thick vinyl-coated polyester woven far stronger than standard fibreglass. It stands up to claws and to a dog leaning on a patio screen door, and it costs more per screen because the material is heavier. It does dim the view slightly, and darker colours see through better than light ones. On doors I often pair it with an aluminum frame for stiffness.

Usually. Operators are identified by their shape, the mounting hole pattern, the arm length and any numbers stamped on the hardware or printed on a label in the sash channel. Clear photos with a tape measure in the shot get me most of the way there. If a part is truly discontinued, universal operators fit some common patterns, and I will tell you before ordering anything.

Cold glass plus humid indoor air. Outdoor air is dry in winter, but a sealed house holds moisture from showers, cooking, laundry and people, and the coldest surface in the room is the glass, so that is where it lands. Running the bathroom and kitchen fans longer, turning a humidifier down and keeping curtains off the glass usually fixes it. Worn weather stripping makes it worse by chilling the frame.
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Available Across the Greater Toronto Area

Have a project in mind?

Tell me what needs fixing and get a free, no-obligation quote — I usually reply within one business day.